Chris James writes his own captions

Words by Chris James, photos by Jem Cresswell

The sequence

The day this was shot was a long, long day. The night before, Corpse (Thomas Robinson), Bunts (Alex Bunting) and I had arrived back from a whirlwind trip to the South Australian desert. While Todd Barnes and Bunts went their own way Corpse decided to hang with me in Sydney that night and make the trip down south early the next morning. So we wake up, pack the car and, in the process, it seems Corpse’s boards had been misplaced, or stolen you might say. We check the uni again: no sign. After an hour or so of racking his brain we were able to get a Corpse model off one of his good mates in Bondi, though we had to wait for him to get home because he’d been out all night and by now it was 4am. Back on the road we make the long drive down, get there a little later than we’d hoped and on arrival I run into a grom from home who tells us that this local nineball booger (name not worth mentioning) had stolen it out of my car in an attempt to keep it. By this time both Corpse and I are furious and I vow to get revenge. It was a few days before I approached him and was greeted with him crying and apologising. Anyways, we go on to score mega pits all day and, as this was ANZAC day, it made it even sweeter. There was a good crew amongst it, no hassling, just the fellas going nuts. This day ended with massive Nuggan pits (mainly Jas Finlay. Actually, only Jas Finlay) and myself and a few others getting bogged driving back to the main road on dark and being forced to get back in our wetsuits and push the car out.

Nuggan reverse

For some reason this day at a normally overcrowded location was empty. Sure, it wasn’t perfect but there were ramps to be had as always. Probably the gnarliest thing about this day was the fact that the line-up was actually overcrowded with those purple jellyfish that don’t so much sting when they touch you as get super itchy. For anyone who has surfed out there you we can all agree that the worst thing is when the big peaky ones come through, stand up and unload straight on your head. Well when that happened all you could see were jellyfish. By the end of the session I had been stung so many times – face, hands and feet – that it had become comical.

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